Wednesday, May 27, 2009

Day 10 (十) 5/25/09 Healing in Hiroshima

Yesterday we moved to Osaka, Japan, the country's second largest city and the last stop on our trip. This whole weekend has been a collection of cultural tours, and the most enlightening of them was today. For 65 years, Americans and Japanese have been living in the wake of World War II. Certainly it was several generations ago that the peace between our countries was torn in two, and many wounds still seep in the minds and memories of those who lost loved ones in not only the fighting but the bombings of Tokyo, Hiroshima, Nagasaki, and Pearl Harbor.
We visited Hiroshima, Japan today. Hiroshima is infamous in modern history for being the first place an atomic bomb was deployed. (Before I begin, let me say that I find discussing this topic to be slightly ironic, given I am an American, and America was the country that dropped the bomb) We visited the Hiroshima Peace Memorial and the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park. Our guide for the day was a man named Sera-san. Sera-san is a 66 year old Japanese man from a company called Affymetrix, which specializes in making highly advanced biomedical equipment. He came to MSU for a supply chain seminar and made some contacts in the school, which explains his involvement with us.
Without being told it, one could not tell that Sera-san is a walking testament of the pain and suffering associated with the atomic bombing of Hiroshima. Several days prior to the bombing of Hiroshima, where he lived, Sera-san was sent away with his mother to another city. On Aug. 6th, 1945, the bomb was detonated over Hiroshima, killing Sera-san’s father and several other family members. In the museum was a map diagram of the center of the city with each house labeled with the last name of the family that resided there. In the dead center, one could see the Japanese characters for the name “Sera.”
As Americans, we are unable to grasp the personal significance the bombings had on the lives of Japanese citizens. We aren’t told the personal stories of the victims, we don’t interact with Japanese citizens that often, and we certainly don’t know every atrocity that was committed during the war. But, like the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park and Museum, I think the time to point fingers has ended. The museum and park’s emphases were not to nationalistically point fingers at western powers. Rather, the park and museum attempted to accurately explain history while discussing the progress of disarmament campaigns across the world. The emphasis is on healing and restoration for all nations and peoples that have been the subject to nuclear exposure and the international efforts designed to eradicate the existence of atomic weapons.


We were shown through the park by a guide, and he took us to multiple monuments donated to the park by various countries. He showed us “phoenix trees”, or trees that survived the atomic bombing and were inside the park. The museum itself was somewhat underneath the detonation zone, so the presence of trees left standing at all is quite impressive. We were taken to the Children’s Memorial, where a group of 6th graders played “Amazing Grace” on their flutes. It was spectacularly inspiring. A western, Christian song being played by Japanese students only reminds one that peace and healing can be dispensed to the next generation. Next we were shown the A-bomb dome. This was the Industrial Promotion Hall of Hiroshima and is the only building still standing to this day that survived the bomb blast, though without the help of supports it would not be standing today.
Our day ended with a dinner at a Japanese buffet with Sera-san and several of his friends. I was able to once again get out the ole’ Japanese and wet my whistle. I am so happy that I can speak to the Japanese people I've been so fortunate to meet along the way. Many Japanese people do not know English, so knowing their language is good for both of us. One of Sera-san’s friends was once a TV voice-actress and voice-over for the Japanese equivalent of “Sesame Street.” After a long, emotionally draining day, I think I can say that I believe healing is possible, though it won’t be easy. The progress of the Japanese government in its disarmament efforts has been minimal, and a museum memorial showed copies of all the pleas from the Japanese government to other heads of state asking them to halt their nuclear testing. There were at least 150 pleas. Fortunately, it has been 950 days since the last nuclear testing, which was in North Korea. One cannot help but tear up at the reality of healing in Hiroshima...

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